Editors' Top Reads: News from Sephora, Haeckels, DECIEM and more...
Here are some of this week’s news and features highlights handpicked by TheIndustry.beauty team.
DECIEM CEO Nicola Kilner to step down
I suppose this was to be expected, but I feel slightly downbeat about the news that DECIEM co-founder Nicola Kilner is stepping down from the role of CEO some five months after Estée Lauder Companies took full control of the business.
It's important to note, though, that while she is stepping down from the CEO role, she remains as co-founder and will retain an advisory role. This makes me feel a little better and I'm hoping that the advisory role is meaningful and not just window dressing.
DECIEM, whose brands include the ground-breaking The Ordinary and NIOD, blazed a trail when it launched in 2013, bringing science-backed skincare to the masses and starting a whole new movement in the market, thanks to the vision of Kilner and her late co-founder Brendan Truaxe (who tragically passed away in 2019).
Estée Lauder Companies first invested in 2017, then upped its stake to become a majority shareholder before finally completing its full $1.7 billion acquisition earlier this year. It has been one of the beauty conglomerate's smarter buys and in order to ensure it retains its edge and its ethos, it's to be hoped that Kilner really will remain properly involved (assuming that is what she wants).
Lauretta Roberts, Co-founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief.
Haeckels undergoes rebrand with founder back at helm and new CEO
British skincare brand Haeckels is marking a new chapter of innovation, responsibility and growth, bolstered by the return of its founder and the appointment of a new CEO.
As part of its rebrand, the name 'Haeckels' will be removed from all packaging and communications. The business will then operate without a formal name over the next 12 months as it engages with its community around the name change. Whilst this seems a little confusing, I can understand its reasoning and the need to address an important issue surrounding its namesake, Ernst Haeckel.
The brand unveiled its new identity and a return to its core principles this week following a "near-fatal" growth period.
At the heart of the relaunch is founder Dom Bridges, who is returning full time to Haeckels as part of its renewed leadership strategy. It has also appointed Ann-Margret Kearney as its new CEO to help its current transition.
Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.
Sephora to open 20 new UK stores as it unveils ambitious expansion plans
If you had told me a few years back that our high streets were about to be flooded with Sephora stores, I might not have believed you. There I was, just three years back, clamouring to get my hands on Sephora goodies every time I went overseas (shout out to its extensive range of minis). Even the luxury of being able to access the Sephora website from the UK isn't lost on me.
This week, the global beauty retailer announced its plans to open 20 UK stores as it strengthens its bricks-and-mortar presence. CEO Guillaume Motte said he wanted to double the size of the business in Britain by launching new shops as well as expanding its online channel.
Sephora originally left the UK market in 2005, having opened a handful of stores. At the time, sources claimed that high rents and tough competition led to its exit.
In 2021, as a prelude to its return, the retailer acquired Feelunique in a £132 million deal. It then launched in the UK online in October 2022, later opening stores at Westfield London and Westfield Stratford last year. It has since expanded its presence across the UK.
Sephora’s Birmingham shop, which opened last week, had more than 2,000 shoppers waiting outside, which is a testament to the retailer's success on UK soil. I'm hoping to see Sephora back on our high streets (praying that they consider opening on Oxford Street near TheIndustry.beauty's office), adding to its shopping centre presence.
Chloé Burney, Senior News & Features Writer.
TikTok predicts record-breaking Christmas sales for brands on platform
TikTok predicts this Christmas will mark its biggest UK retail moment yet, driven by a surge in LIVE shopping sessions and an increase in ad spend from clients over the festive period.
It comes as more businesses join the platform, driving sales this festive period through the power of 'discovery commerce'.
With millions of consumers expected to shop on TikTok throughout November and December this year, LIVE shopping has rapidly gained momentum as a dynamic way for brands and creators to engage with audiences in real time.
Advertising on the platform is also driving shopping behaviour, with 61% of users having made a purchase either directly on TikTok or online after seeing an ad on TikTok.
I can't say this news is particularly surprising, after such a stellar year for TikTok Shop and brands on the platform. However, it's certainly interesting! For more insights, read here.
Sophie Smith, News Editor & Senior Writer.