Exosomes, the latest buzzword in skincare
If you'd have asked me a week ago what exosomes are, I would have said "huh?" but twice in the same week, I've had conversations with founders of brands who've educated me on the benefits of this powerhouse skincare ingredient. So, there must be something to it...
Being hailed as the next holy grail skincare ingredient; exosomes are a regenerative ingredient that act as messengers between cells. They carry information - like proteins and genetic material - from one cell to another, helping skin to repair and adapt to products much faster.
"Exosomes are extracellular vesicles which are tiny bubbles released from stem cells. They act as building blocks, repair mechanisms and messengers, carrying genetic information and proteins to cells to perform different functions," explains regenerative medicine expert Tunc Tiryaki.
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"They are active biological communicators that go beyond surface-level benefits. Exosomes directly influence cellular behaviour by delivering targeted instructions. Their ability to pass through the skin and blood-brain barrier sets them apart in both efficacy and potential."
Originally derived from medical science to help speed up wound healing, exosomes are increasingly being used in skincare to penetrate the skin barrier and deliver regenerative signals that help repair tissue, reduce inflammation and stimulate collagen and elastin production, leading to smoother, firmer and more youthful-looking skin.
"Exosomes are a bit of a multitasker. They are especially beneficial for ageing skin in boosting collagen, reducing fine lines and improving elasticity. They also calm inflammation, making them great for post-acne scarring or rosacea-prone skin. Plus, they can brighten pigmentation over time," adds skincare specialist Dr Ellie Sateei.
With all these benefits, you might think skincare brands using this ingredient are always set to charge a fortune. Well, not necessarily - as shown by two brands that have recently landed on my desk, each at different ends of the market.
Dr Ivy Skincare was founded by Dr Ivona Igerc, a renowned expert in aesthetic medicine, who has specialised in facial rejuvenation and non-invasive treatments for over 25 years. The brand offers a technically advanced range of aesthetic skin treatment products, including an exosome rejuvenation home kit and LED light and laser skincare systems, which promise to "deliver scientifically-advanced, medically driven and safe results, well beyond those of traditional home skincare serums and energy devices".
Dr. Ivy Skincare
Dr Ivy is at the forefront of the stem cell industry, having earned a prestigious award from the Catholic Medical School in Korea.
There are three products in her at-home skincare treatment, which uses Japanese plant exosomes derived from centella asiatica, known for its wound-healing and collagen- and elastin-boosting properties. So, what's in the range?
The Regenerative Exosome Cleanser (£140) gently cleanses without stripping skin moisture, promising to rejuvenate the skin from within for a glowing complexion.
Meanwhile, the Regenerative Exosome Serum (£315) reprograms skin cells to boost collagen production, reduce fine lines and pigmentation, and improve firmness.
Finally, the Regenerative Exosome Cream (£275) is a lightweight formulation that enhances collagen production, improves elasticity, and deeply hydrates for a more youthful glow.
However, for those who want cost-effective, no frills formulations, The Inkey List recently launched the Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex Serum (£20). Dubbed "the facial in a bottle", this serum sets out resurface the complexion, boost collagen production, provide intense hydration, and "give you the glow of your life".
Formulated with cica exosome, the product works to improve collagen production while promoting cell renewal and repair. Other ingredients include prickly pear to gently exfoliate the skin, hyaluronic acid to hydrate the skin, and ectoin to hydrate and support the skin barrier - making it perfect for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex
If crepey eyes are your pain point, Dr Barbara Sturm also has you covered. The brand's Exoso-Metic Eye Serum (£350) is a concentrated serum specifically designed to target the eye area and promises to target the appearance of "crows feet", fine lines around the eyes, and crepey skin.
