The Interview: Abel's Frances Shoemack on pioneering natural fragrance and the brand’s next chapter

Towards the end of last year, the 100% natural fragrance brand Abel quietly reset the dial on its global strategy, relaunching direct-to-consumer while simultaneously securing an exclusive bricks-and-mortar partnership with Liberty London. For a brand that has long operated ahead of the industry curve, championing 100% natural fragrance since 2013, long before it was commercially fashionable, the move marked a confident new chapter rather than a reinvention.

Founded by former winemaker Frances Shoemack, Abel is known for its clean yet characterful scent profiles, spanning everyday compositions like Laundry Day through to more sensual, atmospheric fragrances such as The Apartment. Built on a foundation of natural ingredients, biotechnology and green chemistry, the brand has carved out a distinctive position in a saturated market.

With its Liberty debut introducing the brand to a wider UK audience and fresh energy flowing through its DTC relaunch, Abel is positioning itself not as a niche alternative, but as a serious player redefining what modern luxury fragrance can look (and smell) like.

TheIndustry.beauty caught up with Shoemack to talk about the origins of Abel, the realities of working exclusively with natural ingredients, and how the brand is entering a new era that looks a whole lot different since its launch in 2013.

What inspired you to start Abel Perfumes, and how did your background in winemaking influence your approach to fragrance?

I started Abel because I couldn’t find a fragrance that aligned with my values. I was looking for something natural, but modern and sophisticated, and it simply didn’t exist at the time. Coming from winemaking, I was already deeply attuned to scent, nuance, and the idea of terroir. Winemaking taught me patience, respect for raw materials, and an understanding that nature doesn’t need to be over-engineered to be expressive. That philosophy translated very naturally into fragrance.

Why did you choose Amsterdam as the home for your brand?

I had just moved to Amsterdam when the idea for Abel was forming, and it was an incredibly inspiring place to start something new. There’s a strong design culture, a progressive mindset, and a sense of openness to experimentation. I also didn’t know many people there, which oddly gave me freedom. I wasn’t being watched or judged, so I felt able to explore and take risks.

How would you describe Abel’s signature aesthetic or style?

Confident, modern and quietly radical. We’re not about excess or ornamentation, but depth, intention and integrity. Everything we do is considered, from the scent itself to the packaging and storytelling. It’s a kind of luxury that feels intelligent and grounded rather than showy.

Can you walk us through your creative process when developing a new fragrance?

Every fragrance is a collaboration, and it always starts with a feeling, a memory or a story that we're drawn to. I work very closely with our perfumers Isaac Sinclair and Dr Fanny Grau, often in the lab in Paris, where ideas are tested, pulled apart and rebuilt many times over. Isaac brings an incredible instinct for structure and emotion, while Fanny brings a scientific precision that allows us to push performance while staying 100% natural. The Apartment is a great example. It didn’t start as a planned launch at all. We were actually close to signing off on another scent when a late-night conversation shifted the direction entirely. We began imagining what the person who lived in this very chic Parisian apartment might smell like. It was playful exploration, and the fragrance unfolded very intuitively, with lots of experimentation and editing until the mood felt just right.

Abel was ahead of its time, using 100% natural ingredients. Why did you decide to go down this route and what challenges came with this approach?

Once I understood how reliant the fragrance industry was on petrochemicals, I couldn’t unsee it. For me, fossil fuels simply didn’t belong in something so intimate and sensory. The challenges were significant. Performance, consistency and longevity were all considered impossible with naturals at the time. That’s what pushed us to the forefront of biotechnology and green chemistry. We took a pro-science stance early on because it was the only way forward.

How do consumers respond to natural perfumes compared with conventional fragrances?

There’s often surprise. Many people still associate natural perfume with something that fades quickly or smells rustic. When they experience Abel, the response is usually, “I didn’t know natural could smell like this.” Once people understand what’s possible, it changes expectations entirely.

How do you maintain the brand’s identity and ethos while scaling internationally?

By being very clear on what we will and won’t compromise on. Growth only works if it’s aligned with our values. We scale carefully, intentional in our choice of partners and making sure every touchpoint feels true to who we are. If something doesn’t feel right, we don’t do it.

When was the moment you thought, ‘ah, we’ve made it’?

Honestly, I don’t think I’ve ever felt that. There have been proud moments, key retailers coming on board, messages from customers saying a scent transported them home, but I still see Abel as a work in progress. That feeling of always wanting to do better is what keeps me motivated.

Abel is currently stocked in Liberty in the UK. Are you looking to expand your UK presence with activations or third-party partnerships?

The UK is an incredibly important market for us that we've only really just started to explore. Liberty has been a natural fit and was always a dream retailer from me since Abel's inception. We’re interested in growing thoughtfully, whether that’s through activations, collaborations or new partnerships, but only where it feels aligned. We’re more focused on depth of connection than rapid expansion.

Which Abel fragrance is your personal favourite, and why?

It changes, right now I have two on heavy rotation. Laundry Day is pure joy to me. It’s clean, uplifting and effortless, the kind of scent that instantly puts you in a good mood and feels right no matter the moment. At the other end of the spectrum is The Apartment, which feels incredibly chic. It’s more sensual and atmospheric, and I love how it captures that quiet, intimate glamour. One feels like everyday optimism, the other like slipping into something special. I love having both in my rotation.

What would success look like to you here?

Success is building a brand that proves another way is possible and flourishes long into the future. That you can create beautiful, high-performing fragrance without relying on fossil fuels, and that people genuinely connect with. If we can shift the industry away from its fossil fuel reliance, all while bringing something to our customers that they love, that makes their life a little better, then that's meaningful success.

Rumour has it there’s a new fragrance launch on the horizon. Can you give us any hints?

Yes, there's a lot of creativity flowing at the moment at Abel! All I’ll say is that it continues to push what’s possible in natural perfumery. Our next fragrance to launch is bold, very considered, and rooted in the idea of modern luxury done differently. It's an outspoken, distinctive scent that is pushing creative boundaries.