The Interview: Charles-Edouard Barthes on creating Haute Couture skincare at EviDenS de Beauté
EviDenS De Beauté is the result of several happy combinations: it combines French flair and Japanese science; blends luxury rituals with high performance; and, perhaps most crucially, it's a fusion of the spirits founder Charles-Edouard Barthes and his wife Eriko. It was launched in2007 after Frenchman Barthes had closely observed his Japanese wife's daily skincare routine and set about creating a brand that respected her sensitive skin.
Eriko wanted skincare that worked but often this left her skin irritated and her husband was inspired to find a solution. Working with cutting edge Japanese skincare scientists, most notably burn doctor Professor Ishibashi, and applying his French savour-faire, Barthes has created the skincare equivalent of Haute Couture. The range comprises various rituals or "Saho" to address specific concerns be that pigmentation, dehydration and dullness, inflammation and redness and there is also a line for younger skin, inspired by Barthes' daughter, among others.
Barthes successfully identified a gap in the market for skincare that combined both luxury experience and performance, and both sides are equally important to him. EviDenS products are packed with technology such as: Triple Collagen (effectively three different types of collagen to penetrate different layers of the skin); QAI® Complex, which stimulates the skin’s regeneration process; Bright Domino complex for pigmentation; and Transderm® Complex to promote the skin's absorption capabilities.
This science is wrapped in a formula that also uses La Foux spring water, drawn directly from the natural spring of Saint-Paul-de-Vence and a fragrance that has been carefully crafted in the world-famous Grasse region.
Like haute couture EviDenS de Beauté does not come cheap – a foaming cleanser is £70, for example, while a day moisturiser would be around £150, but there are products priced much higher than that (particularly in the Extreme Saho range). However, like haute couture, there is no denying the product is elevated in all aspects and its recent promotion to the ground floor beauty hall, known as the White Hall, at Harrods (it has been on the fifth floor since 2011, where it also has a treatment room) has opened it up to a world of new customers. On the ground floor beauty hall of the historic department store, Evidens de Beauté sits among internationally renowned names such as Sensai and Sisley and it more than holds its own with sales outpacing the beauty category as a whole.
As well as Harrods, the brand is available in luxe spa settings worldwide and at its own Maison in Paris. TheIndustry.beauty caught up with Charles-Edouard Barthes on a recent trip to London to check out his Harrods counter, when he filled us on on his unique approach to beauty and his ambitions for the future.
How long has the brand been present in Harrods and how has it performed since you launched here?
Evidens de Beauté was introduced in Harrods in 2011. We’ve been sharing a common vision since day one: providing our customers with the very best in beauty.
Since the beginning of our partnership, both offline / online sales and our in-store visibility have increased significantly.
We finished 2023 at +23% in offline sales vs 2022 and number one ranked within the H&B department (out of 75 brands). In 2024 we are outpacing the category in terms of growth, at +14% YTD (forecasting +20% by end of year) and were already ranking 13 out of 23 within the White Hall, after just four weeks of trading.
What is the significance of the move to the White Hall and how do you think this will improve performance and visibility?
The Prestigious Harrods White Hall is the global window to luxury cosmetics. Our ambition is to be the number one brand within the space. We are already seeing incredibly strong results, challenging the well-established brands found within the department. The secret to our success will be building upon our loyal consumer base built on the 5th floor, with new customer acquisition built on the richer footfall on the ground floor. With this customer acquisition, we are forecasting an even stronger growth for 2025.
Where else is the brand in the UK and do you have other plans to expand here?
We are currently exclusively working with Harrods in the UK.
What are the best sellers in the range and are those best sellers common in all markets?
Our best sellers are in line with our global trends, i.e. The New Special Mask, The Moisturizing Lotion, The Total Shield and our Extreme Saho. In Harrods, the Extreme Saho does exceptionally well, especially with our loyal Middle Eastern clientele.
Does your customer buy fully into the range or do you find they dip in and buy a favourite product to add to their existing routine?
Our customers are advised to find the matching Saho adapted to their skin needs. Saho means Ceremony in Japanese; therefore it is a careful curation of beauty products applied in a specific order on your skin. It is also a precious moment dedicated to yourself.
You have just introduced a new cleanser. Was this a gap in the product line up? Can you tell us a bit about what makes it special?
The All-in-One Purifying Cleanser launched in October (
[available in-store only at Harrods]. Cleansing is the first step in the Beauty Ritual, therefore it was needed in the Rebalancing Saho to fulfil this Saho promises of anti-imperfections and anti-ageing.
It has 3 in 1 activations: clearing, soothing and anti-imperfections. It removes dust, dirt and pollutants. It contains mild exfoliation to wash out dead cells and deeply cleanses to dissolve sebum excess
Expert Ingredients include:
- Triple Collagen for a global anti-ageing solution; combining three different sizes of collagen to target different skin needs:
- Macro collagen, which forms a protective film to limit water evaporation in an anti-dehydration process.
- Medium collagen, which reaches the epidermis to enable water retention in a hydrating action.
- Micro collagen, which can restructure the cells on a deeper level.
- GlucoSkinX3 is the our newest star ingredient.
- It is produced from the purest rice, Onna Sake Kasu, which protects and strengthens the skin barrier by connecting the ceramides. It helps restore skin elasticity and regulate sebaceous equilibrium while fortifying the three layers of the skin.
- The nutrient-rich Sake Kasu has been the beauty secret of Japanese women for centuries. It is also valued for its skin-softening abilities: it may be applied as a mask or added to your bathwater.
- La Foux Spring Water: From a natural spring in the South of France, that has been legendary since antiquity.
- This water, renowned for its healthful benefits, has stirred myths and legends: the emperor Hadrian allegedly sent his son there to bask in its curative properties, while Nero used it to cure some illnesses that afflicted his wife Poppaea.
- Its hydrating, refreshing powers stabilise the skin and even the complexion. With its low sodium content and neutral pH, this mildly mineralised water also promotes cellular exchanges and is suitable for sensitive skin.
- Enzymes: Purifying and anti-inflammatory properties
- Finally, it contains the Rebalancing Saho signature complex: the TransDERM®Complex, allows deep penetration of active ingredients and maximises efficacy
It is an expert, yet an ultra-sensorial, journey with a transformative texture from refreshing gel to delicate foam lightly perfumed with Jardin de Grasse, our olfactory signature.
When it comes to new product development, is this a constant work in progress or do you only introduce newness where you feel the brand really needs it?
EviDenS de Beauté is true to the age-old Japanese philosophy of Kaizen (Kai: Change / Zen: Good), the perpetual quest for perfection. Therefore we are always researching and selecting the highest quality active ingredients and developing powerful complexes, thanks to our R&D department in Japan. We are committed to constantly improving our creations.
Have you considered moving into other areas such as body and fragrance? The product smells so nice!
EviDenS de Beauté has a Body Saho, based on the quest for Kokoro, a Japanese concept aiming for perfect harmony between heart, mind and soul.
The Body Saho products are used for all our Spa experiences, including our flagship La Maison in Paris, the brand new dedicated cabin at Le Crillon Hotel in Paris and in 23 Rosewood properties all over the world, thanks to our worldwide partnership with this luxury Hotels & Resorts group.
Our signature fragrance is called Jardin de Grasse. It has been developed in Grasse, the world capital of high perfumery and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where the olfactory world of EviDenS de Beauté was born.
Jardin de Grasse was developed as meticulously as an haute couture fragrance and pays tribute to the region of Grasse, the kingdom of perfume.
It is a floral silage with jasmine, rose and tuberose notes, an ultra-fresh bouquet crowned with a fruity touch of peach and orange, seasoned with a touch of amber, cedarwood and musk.
Sensoriality is at the core of all our creations, from our delicate textures to our refined fragrances. Combined with the Japanese technology, this French Elegance results in EviDenS de Beauté philosophy; the most pleasurable journey towards results.
Fragrances is a project in the works, stay tuned!
EviDenS de Beauté is available on its own website, at Harrods.com and Harrods Knightsbridge.