The Interview: Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh
According to P&S Intelligence, the global anti-ageing market will be worth £306 billion by 2030. As consumers opt for products and services that they can use in the comfort of their own home, sales in the anti-wrinkle category continue to soar. Although anti-ageing products have traditionally been marketed to women who are over the age of 30, research has revealed that consumers as young as 15 have purchased anti-ageing products in pursuit of healthy and radiant skin.\
Cosmetic doctor Jean-Louis Sebagh and his team are renowned for providing London’s premier anti-ageing and “Ageing-Maintenance” procedures for the face and body. Dr Sebagh has more than 30 years of experience in the skincare industry and whilst taking care of supermodel Cindy Crawford’s face, he got the idea for a skincare line based on a skin boosting injectable treatment he used on her skin to rejuvenate and stimulate collagen. “The Meaningful Beauty skincare range was based on the powerful Antioxidant SOD, which was derived from a special French melon extract. “At the time, this was a really avant-garde approach and I’m proud that Meaningful Beauty remains one of the most popular skincare brands in the U.S,” Dr Sebagh said.
The Meaningful Beauty Skincare range is just one of many successes for Dr Sebagh. While working in L.A in the 1980’s, he discovered the first FDA approved collagen fillers Zyderm and Zyplast. In 1994, he pioneered the concept of “Ageing Maintenance”, combining various new non-surgical procedures to prevent, restore, remodel and sculpt the face. Dr Sebagh is also renowned for pioneering the Botox revolution, the concept of face sculpture and the non-surgical thread lift. “My goal has always been to develop gentler, non-invasive ways to postpone the ageing process in order to avoid or delay the need for invasive surgery. I always aim to do my best to give my patients a subtle but very effective way to restore what is lost through the ageing process - this became possible with rapid technological advances in the industry,” Dr Sebagh said.
Dr Sebagh’s patients love the minimal downtime and natural results that his treatments offer. “Some patients want to maintain their natural beauty for as long as possible while others want to improve on what nature provided them with or they might need some help after accidents or an illness. Each client is different so I tailor and combine the use of treatments depending on what we want to achieve together,” Dr Sebagh said.
While the ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ approach has worked well for Dr Sebagh, there have been a few changes made to the treatments as he constantly keeps up with new technologies while honing in on his craft. “At the moment, I’m seeing incredible results with my new thread lift technique. After 40 years, I can confidently say I am able to achieve the same result with lifting threads as a soft surgical facelift without a patient going under the knife. I’m also very focused on new collagen stimulators like LANLUMA, which help to restore skin on the arms, hands, knees and other areas of the body, creating a new era in body restoration,” he said.
In 2005, Dr Sebagh launched his eponymous skincare line. The brand was created with his ‘Ageing-Maintenance’ approach in mind, emphasising the importance of taking care of your skin on a daily basis with the right ingredients and the right concentration for your skin’s needs. “The amazing improvement of biotechnology which changed the cosmetic industry into Cosmeceuticals (AHA, hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramides, anti-oxidants) made the launch possible. I also had the advantage of using expertise and formulations which were so ahead of their time. My mission has always been to provide the best skincare possible for my patients and clients who are unable to visit my clinics. I want to educate them on what they need for their skin and how they can use my products to achieve optimum results,” Dr Sebagh said.
Prior to launching his namesake brand, Dr Sebagh didn’t have a target audience in mind. His only aim was to make the best biotech skin care possible. “I believe that skin is skin regardless of one’s age or gender and it should be cared for from an early age. By launching my own skincare line, I was able to share my knowledge and expertise with those unable to visit me in person. I have noticed that our customer base is more diverse and attitudes have changed towards beauty over the past seventeen years since launching the brand. It’s a positive step forward for everyone and brings me a great deal of satisfaction,” Dr Sebagh said. Research is an important part of Dr Sebagh’s work - for him, the research process is never complete. “The nature of my work will always require a sufficient amount of research. I continue to educate myself and research the best techniques and ingredients in order to achieve the best results for my patients and customers,” he said.
All of Dr Sebagh’s products are manufactured in-house in France using original formulations he works on with his team of chemists. The right ingredients in the right concentrations are the main things he takes into consideration during the formulation process. “I am a perfectionist so I always want to ensure my products are the best they can be before any customer tries them - my Rose de Vie serum took three years to perfect,” Dr Sebagh said. Other products that took a significant amount of time to be developed include the cult Deep Exfoliation Mask (which combines lactic and azelaic acid) and the unique concept of the Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream. Dr Sebagh’s aim is to deliver the right combination of ingredients for a daily skincare regime that can transform the skin with regular use.
The brand’s bestsellers include Serum Repair and the Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream. “Its patented powder formulation and micro-encapsulation technology means that the Vitamin C is only released when applied to the skin. It remains the purest form of Vitamin C on the market today,” Dr Sebagh said. The brand’s most recent launch, Retinol Night Repair, is also a hit with customers. “Most retinol products are incredibly sensitising to the skin and can disrupt its barrier, leading to peeling and redness. I spent years formulating this product to ensure it was suitable for those with sensitive skin,” he adds. The Supreme Maintenance Youth Serum is Dr Sebagh’s favourite product. The serum delivers a potent dose of three anti-ageing peptides, hyaluronic acid and the ‘youth molecule’ Resveratrol.
At a time where skincare brands are launching at a rapid rate, Dr Sebagh believes that one of the biggest mistakes people make in their skincare routines is not understanding the needs of their skin and allowing themselves to be influenced by marketing. “My strategy is one of information and education with a focus on elucidating the science supporting the results which can be seen when using my products. We’ve recently launched Dr Sebagh’s Skin Secrets - a fortnightly publication specifically designed to provide knowledge and understanding on a variety of skin-related topics,” he said. Skin Secrets is Dr Sebagh’s way of ensuring his clients and customers receive information that is coming from a reputable source with over 30 years of experience in the industry.
As consumers’ attitudes towards aesthetics continue to change, Dr Sebagh believes people of all ages are more open to aesthetic procedures due to the rise of ‘beautification’ on Instagram and TikTok. “Younger consumers are wanting aesthetic treatments now whereas in the past, the treatments were all about preserving youth. The people who come to see me desire transformative results. If suitable, of course, subtle and successful results can be achieved,” he said.
Dr Sebagh believes that there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach to skincare. He feels that the beauty industry is becoming more aligned with the building blocks from his groundbreaking Ageing-Maintenance routine. “Cleanse, exfoliate, purify, moisturise, hydrate and protect - each step is important. Stay out of harsh sunlight and avoid sugar as much as possible. Treat yourself to occasional but regular visits to the clinic to maintain a glowing, youthful face for as long as possible,” Dr Sebagh said.
The continued success of doctor-led skincare brands prove that consumers are still taking an interest in anti-ageing skincare that delivers transformative results. With formulas including actives that actually work, these products are backed by science, making it easy to promote and maintain optimum skin health. “Beauty is ageless and people who look after their skin and have the correct treatments at the right time will always look their best,” Dr Sebagh explains.