The Interview: Dr. Sam Bunting on rejecting skincare trends and keeping things simple

Dr Sam Bunting, otherwise known as a "beauty insider’s best-kept secret", studied medicine at Cambridge University and University College London. She went on to practise medical dermatology for six years before establishing her own clinic at 41 Harley Street and a skincare line.

Inspired by seeing how transforming someone’s skin can also transform their attitude, Bunting set out to provide dermatology for specialist skin concerns, claiming acne is her "bread and butter". But, after seeing patients struggle to find the right skincare for their concerns and to effectively dose active ingredients, she decided it was time to create her own brand. Enters: Dr Sam's Skincare.

Dr Sam discussed her no-nonsense approach to skincare with TheIndustry.beauty. She told us about her universal skincare range with its cutting edge, yet simple formulations that take the guesswork out of dosing and active ingredients. Despite the brand's successes as well as tried and true products, Dr Sam still somehow manages to float under the radar. The founder explained her focus on harnessing a loyal community and her big plans for the future, including new launches, moving into third-party retail and more.

What led you to create your own product line?

My career path has always been a bit unconventional in that I had other practices around 2010. Around the time that I started my own clinic, I was working for other brands. I became immersed in the space between the magic of dermatology and cosmetics. I recognised that if I could take my work to a bigger, broader audience, it would make such a difference to so many people's lives because bad skin days are just the worst!

What makes Dr Sam's different to competitors on the market?

I hold true to the belief that if you change someone's skin, you change their life for the better. It sounds simplistic but I found it to be so true over the years. I've had to treat myself as well as my patients.

When I decided I wanted to create my own brand, I talked to large pharmacy chains and some independently wealthy individuals who wanted to start a brand. However, in the end, I decided to just start it myself. The primary thing that pushed me to do it, was that my favourite cleansers kept getting discontinued.

Reflecting on my practice in the clinic, it became clear that the first thing I needed to do was make a good cleanser. One that's gentle, non-foaming, fragrance-free, doesn't clog your pores and effectively removes your makeup in one wash. I thought, "If I don't do this, I will have done the world a disservice".

It was very successful from day one and the fulfilment centre struggled to meet the demand by the end of the first month. We even received phone calls from retailers in the first couple of weeks of business. So, you know, the brand gained traction very quickly.

The brand outline I had in my head was very clear. Similar to my practice, I knew I wanted to keep things very minimal. I wanted to create the Apple of skincare with a solid foundation. I didn't want an excess of choice, but, where there is indecision, we have a routine finder on site to help customers navigate the products. The customisation depends on how you use the products together because they're highly effective at multitasking across different concerns - whether you suffer from clogged skin, or you're a bit redness or pigmentation prone. We wanted to take the guesswork out and make things super clear.

I think what we do differently to others is our philosophy. We are structured around slow launches, which means we can really get the formulations right. For example, our Brightly Serum was re-formulated 39 times. We build everything very intentionally and I think that comes across to our loyal following. That's why we skip certain trends when they're not aligned with what I believe in. We stay true to the core pillars of the brand, which are simplicity, excellent advice and transformative skincare.

Why do you only sell DTC and not through third-party retailers?

It's about launching potent products and gaining knowledge about the customer. I wanted to learn about who they are, what they like and what they don't like. Getting that data has been so valuable for us. I believe in creating something slow, steady and built to last. However, we've had lots of interest over the years and I think now is a great time for us to expand and move into retail.

That's exciting! So, if scaling is on the cards, are there any plans you can tell us about?

Ultimately, for us, we want to be about discovery. We have a subscription service that we want people to opt into long-term. There are good models of brands going into Target, for example, but are still driving DTC business. I think that's the engine of the brand - there's the community aspect for Dr Sam's and it's so important to me. Sometimes, when you get the retailer in between you and your customer, it can change that relationship.

One thing I love about Dr Sam's is the packaging, though simple it's extremely effective. For example, the pump on your moisturiser somehow grabs every last ounce of product. Why did you choose to focus on these features rather than glitzy packaging?

The pumps are designed specifically for dosing. I know from the clinic that you have to be really precise with dosing active ingredients as people often overuse things.

In terms of branding, my personal aesthetic is clean and minimal so it was never going to be pink and gold! We also have a lot of male customers, so this way it feels and looks unisex. Our product names are also designed to be positive, such as 'Brightly' as opposed to 'Blemish Prevention Cream'.

Finally, we had to do things affordably. We didn't want to create very expensive packaging and tools because it would have driven up the price point. Above all else, I wanted our brand to be accessible, but have an aspirational feel. I'm happy with the aesthetic of it.

Can you tell us about your bestsellers? 

This is always really hard to answer because I love all my babies, I really do. I think the products that you have struggled with and finally get over the line usually land really well, like our Brightly Serum. I've been really happy with this product - it's probably one of our top sellers.

I think it is the best azelaic acid serum on the market because of the combination of active ingredients and the texture that we've managed to achieve. It contains 10% azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C and bakuchiol. It's just a phenomenal product for somebody looking for an efficient but effective morning routine. In one step you've got blemish prevention, you're targeting pigment, you've got texture improvement and some antioxidant power. It's a little powerhouse!

Can you tell us about your brand-new Flawless Moisturiser Intense?

Using consumer insight, we uncovered that customers are often worried that barrier repair creams might be too heavy and break them out. But, they're very functional products that people need nowadays. If you look at TikTok, for example, there are over five billion searches for #skinbarrier. I see this want and need as a consequence of lifestyle issues. Yes, we're all clean but we're also stressed and not sleeping properly. Barrier repair is a relatively new phenomenon and something that's been really embraced since the pandemic.

Many people are nervous about overdoing actives or using the wrong combination of things, particularly when it comes to ingredients such as retinoids, which we know can be irritating and disrupt your barrier. So there is a definite consumer need. Ageing also comes into the mix with barrier repair. Your skin knows how to repair itself, but it needs enough energy to do so. By the time you’ve reached the age of 40, your battery is running at around 50% so there’s little reserve for the impact of the sun.

For the moisturiser, we're one of the first brands to be using a new ingredient called Sunflower Shoot Extract (SSE). I was at a conference in New Orleans and the ingredient was presented during a lecture on exciting innovations in dermatology. I came back and told my chemist and that ended up being the missing ingredient.

SSE is basically 'baby' plants at the most vulnerable stage of their development. They're full of phytochemicals that help them defend themselves against the environment. So, it's not surprising that they benefit skin in the same way.

I'm not really an early adopter when it comes to ingredients - I like things to be tried and tested. But the company that produces the extract has done a lot of research into it and it's what I'd been looking for. I was blown away!

We've been getting feedback from our communities and it's phenomenal. They're thrilled with how good it looks under makeup and how it doesn't cause breakouts, saying things like "I didn't know I needed this product, but my goodness it has made such a difference". Those responses give me goosebumps and make me think we've done some good here - even though it sounds cheesy!

Are there any more new and exciting launches on the horizon?

We don't tend to reveal too much until the point of launch. The range started off with universal and broad products, but now there is a chance to expand into products that target more advanced issues. I think we will evolve, but it will be slow and very intentional.

When you launch new products, how do you go about marketing them at a DTC brand?

We are a social-first brand and always have been. We've probably got about half a million people in our community across YouTube, which is still my biggest platform, Instagram and TikTok.

I think we've always had strong organic influence through relationships and people. I specifically like to work with those who like the brand. I know that might seem very obvious but we won't spend money on partnerships unless there is a pre-existing relationship.

Our TikTok is growing really quickly with a lot of new customer acquisition this year. But, the products are what's keeping that customer retention. They like the products and the subscription offering. They also like the rewards and the refer-a-friend programme.

I recently hired some more senior people in the team to drive the expansion of our customer base. Our new Managing Director Victoria Campbell came to us in March from Unilever. I've brought in people like her to push hard on marketing.