The Interview: Nicola Kilner, CEO and Co-founder of DECIEM, on her far from ordinary products and career

Nicola Kilner, CEO and Co-founder of DECIEM Inc, began her career in beauty at British institution Boots, working her way up the ranks to become buying manager for innovation. That word "innovation" has been a defining characteristic of her career, which has also had its fair share of success, challenge and, sadly, tragedy along the way.

In 2013 Kilner co-founded DECIEM, with Canadian computer scientist and entrepreneur Brandon Truaxe, who tragically died in 2019, two years after the business attracted investment from Estée Lauder Companies (ELC).

The DECIEM business, which operates from Toronto, is now fully owned by ELC and operates two brands: The Ordinary and NIOD. The Ordinary was ground-breaking when it arrived in 2016, bringing clinical formulas to the market along with transparent pricing and minimalist branding and packaging. It has inspired numerous other brands to do the same and was at the vanguard of a new consumer movement in beauty that placed the emphasis on ingredients and efficacy.

However, NIOD (which stands for Non-Invasive Options in Dermal Science), came first in 2015 and it's probably fair to say it has been overshadowed at times by the runaway success of The Ordinary. NIOD too is based on clinical formulas but plays in the premium space and is unashamedly scientific in its approach and its communications. However, that doesn't mean it's complicated. Its four-step routine is easy to follow and customers can shop by concern, rather than ingredients, if that's what works for them. The NIOD website and store-staff are expert at demystifying the science.

To help spread the word further, Kilner and the DECIEM team staged an immersive event in London recently, for the media, beauty professionals and retailers, that placed NIOD solely in the spotlight, to explain its approach and latest developments. Afterwards, Kilner took time out to explain NIOD further to TheIndustry.beauty, and to share the key lessons she has learnt from her far from ordinary career in beauty.

I want to ask you today about NIOD but first of all could you please just give us a brief overview of the two skincare brands in the group and how each is positioned differently?

The two skincare brands that are currently active under DECIEM are NIOD and The Ordinary. NIOD, which stands for “Non-Invasive Options in Dermal Science,” was founded in 2015 with the intention of being a pioneer in tech-led skin science and being available to the hyper-educated in skin tech. NIOD is fixated on the future and focuses on skin longevity, and optimizing skin’s health span in the long term. The Ordinary was created in 2016 with the purpose of demystifying ingredients that have existed in the beauty space for many years, such as hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. These ingredients were previously hidden in INCI lists and not brought to the forefront – while we did the opposite, and  focused on education, transparency, and accessible pricing. We are so pleased that to this day, all of our brand’s products continue to be ideated and created in our wonderful labs in our Toronto HQ.

This summer you held an immersive event to highlight the latest developments at NIOD, why are you shining a spotlight on this brand in particular right now?

Yes we did, it was actually our first event completely focused on NIOD and the purpose was to communicate the science and technology behind the product’s formulations. Now that consumers are more savvy than ever when it comes to skincare and what ingredients they are putting on their skin, we felt it was an appropriate time to spotlight some of the incredible innovation we have achieved with NIOD. We also wanted to take the opportunity to build excitement for the brand ahead of upcoming product launches.

Copper Amino Isolate Lipid is one of the developments NIOD is most proud of

Can you please tell us about some of the key developments at the brand of late?

One of the developments we are most proud of is our product Copper Amino Isolate Lipid 1% (CAIL 1%) receiving a patent for its copper peptide delivery system. This patent has been achieved with a proprietary process for enhanced solubility of copper peptides (Pal-GHK-Cu) in glycolipids, resulting in a sophisticated blue gel. The blue nature of the product does come from the impressive 1% concentration by weight of copper peptides.

Our team of experts located in our Toronto lab continuously explore novel approaches to address skin optimization, including the complex challenges of aging skin. The team took it upon themselves to conduct a study on the other form of copper peptides we use in our formulations like Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS 3 1:1) , GHK-Cu, and determined that as an ingredient, it can lead to 197% increase in collagen 1 production in the fibroblast cells treated. This just reinforces the role of this peptide in maintaining skin firmness and elasticity,  reducing the appearance of wrinkles, and reflects NIOD’s commitment to the always-expanding limits of skin science.

The NIOD brand presents as unashamedly scientific in its vibe, how do you make what may appear to be complex accessible and understandable for your consumer (for instance people can shop by concern or ingredient on the website)?

We never want to water down the science as this drives everything we do, and is so closely associated with the brand identity. However, searching by concern is a fantastic way to learn about and immerse yourself in the universe of NIOD products. For example, if someone is looking to address signs of aging, CAIS 3 1:1 or CAIL 1% are recommended due to the inclusion of copper peptides and the incredible science I described previously. For signs of aging around the eye there is Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate (FECC), which contains 72% active technologies in the formulation to address uneven skin tone, puffiness and signs of aging around the eye contour . If someone is experiencing dry or dehydrated skin we would recommend Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex (MMHC) which contains 15 forms of hyaluronic technologies that work together to support and enhance the skin’s natural ways of maintaining hydration, and increase moisture levels in those upper layers of the skin.

Also I’ve noticed that some of your stores are clearly marked as being the place to go to rebuild your skincare regimen with a team member, how do your store staff approach communicating the products and creating solutions for consumers?

All of our incredible in-store ambassadors go through rigorous product training which is continually being updated, along with the products. This ensures that the store locations that offers NIOD can support anyone with building a personalised regimen from NIOD, and can help to break down the science behind the products and how they get to work on, and beneath the skin. Their main focus is always education, so everyone who enters one of our stores should feel empowered to ask as many questions as they would like to!

While the brand is scientific, the approach to using your skincare is not complex, you do have a simple four-step process, tell us a bit about that please.

Exactly, NIOD is applied the same way as all skincare regimens are, it mainly comes down to layering the different textures. We recommend starting your regimen by cleaning with Low-Viscocity Cleaning Ester (LVCE), followed by CAIS 3 1:1, of which the formulation has a water-like consistency. This can be followed by MMHC which has more of a serum quality to it. We recommend applying FECC around the eyes last, and at night following this with CAIL 1%. CAIS 3 1:1, MMHC, FECC, and CAIL 1% are all part of what we call the “Cour Four” which we consider to be the base products for a full skincare regimen.

Are there particular skin concerns that consumers turn to NIOD, are you seeing any trends here? (From my own perspective I am interested to see the focus on redness).

For sensitivity in the skin, we offer Modulating Glucosides (MG) which focuses on rebuilding barrier function, and incorporates technologies to help reduce feelings of discomfort, reduce the look of redness, and bring balance to the skin. We actually tested how effective MG was at reducing redness caused by an irritant when applied beforehand. We checked the results at different times after using the product. The results showed that MG significantly reduced redness compared to the control group.

What about ingredients. Which are the ingredients that NIOD in particular is backing at the moment and what are the benefits?

At NIOD we fully champion copper peptides – we believe they are the future of skin science. CAIS 3 1:1 and CAIL 1% are really the blue jewels in NIOD’s crown. In simple terms, copper peptides help to make your skin appear plump, more bouncy and smoother, diminishing the look of fine lines and wrinkles so the benefits really are incredible to add into any regimen when there are signs of aging.

Can you tell us a bit about product development and how you conceive new products/improve on existing products? How do you land on the best ingredients, formulas and formats?

At NIOD, we let science take the lead and guide us to the next discovery or novelty. Every formulation that we craft is a result of rigorous research, and trial and error. As such, if and when we do come across a technology that we believe would further enhance an existing product concept or formulation, we do not hesitate to put it to the test, nor do we limit ourselves to what the outcome may be.

From the NIOD line-up, which products are your personal favourites and why?

I always have CAIS 3 1:1 in my regimen to maintain that bounce in my skin, and well as Superoxide Dismutase Saccharide Mist (SDSM2) which is a hydrating spray with incredible antioxidant support. It is so perfect for all of the traveling I do and spending a lot of time in busy cities with pollution. I feel really set up for my days when I start with those two products.

The Ordinary has been an industry trailblazer

You have achieved what for many in beauty is a dream. You’ve created brands, won investment from a major group and have now been bought by them. But as is well documented your journey has also been characterised by huge challenges and, indeed, a tragedy. When you reflect on this, what would you say has been the greatest lesson for you?

Approaching every situation with kindness. Being kind to our employees, being kind to our customers, being kind to our partners, and kind to the planet. At DECIEM we hope by simply doing the right thing, we can indirectly promote others to also continue to do better. We hope to inspire a better world of beauty through the kindness of our people, the innovation of our brands, and the honesty of our words and actions.

The beauty of the beauty business is its entrepreneurial spirit. As one of its best-known entrepreneurs, you must get asked for advice from those starting out all of the time, what do you tell them?

Never forget everyone is human. Also, sometimes taking a gamble really pays off. The unknown can be scary, but you'll never know what it may hold without taking the jump!