The Interview: Nikolina Kisic Mamic of luxury haircare brand Flora Lab Paris on blending rituals with results

Nikolina Kisic Mamic has been immersed in the haircare industry all of her life. That she eventually launched her own brand may be unsurprising but Flora Lab Paris is surprising. For a start, the focus of the brand begins with the scalp with Kisic Mamic firmly believing that you can't have healthy hair without the right foundation. Her career experience also takes in luxury experience and that is what Flora Lab Paris delivers through its hair spas and its at-home rituals.

The products lean as much into the sensory as they do into the therapeutic benefits and the language used to describe them, and the ingredients contained within them, are very heavily influenced by the skincare market.

The range includes hair "fillers", masks and single-ingredient boosters to deliver extra shots of hyaluronic acid, ceramides or keratin (among others) to the hair. The skinification of hair has been a growing trends but Flora Lab Paris really does talk the talk and walk the walk in this regard.

Its spa experience are located in some of the most upscale locations in France and happily for us here in the UK, the Chancery Rosewood in London is one of the next destinations.

Kisic Mamic talks us through her career to date, the inspiration behind the brand and the spa experiences and the best way to care for your scalp and hair.

You come from a celebrated hairdressing background and have grown up in this sector. Can you please tell us about that before we talk about Flora Lab Paris?

Absolutely. My journey in the haircare industry began early, deeply influenced by my family's involvement in the sector. Growing up, I was immersed in the world of hairdressing, which instilled in me a profound understanding of hair health and aesthetics.

After many years working at L'Oréal, the world's number one beauty group, I decided to use my in-depth knowledge of beauty, hair science, formulation, as well as luxury, to envision an innovative haircare line.

Having become an expert in both formulation and high-end service, I saw myself as a pioneer of the curative approach in the hair industry. I became a consultant for luxury hotels by developing my own five-step Hair Spa methodology (The Hair Lab), a highly luxurious approach that revolutionised existing hair rituals. At the same time, I honed my sense for developing a groundbreaking range of products, Flora Lab Paris.

Nikolina Kisic Mamic blends rituals with results at Flora Lab Paris

When was Flora Lab Paris launched, and what was the opportunity you saw for the brand? It's so interesting that you started from the perspective of the scalp as opposed to the hair fibre, which many others do.

Flora Lab Paris was launched in mid-2023 with the vision of revolutionising haircare by focusing on the scalp's health, recognising it as the foundation for beautiful hair. This approach stemmed from the understanding that many hair issues originate from scalp imbalances. By addressing the scalp first, we aim to provide holistic solutions that promote overall hair wellness.​

Pioneering this molecular skin therapy for hair ethos, Flora Lab Paris combines cutting-edge science with sensorial indulgence, uniquely offering 41 powerful, clean, vegan, gender-neutral, and transgenerational biomimetic formulas. The first truly luxury haircare brand in the world.

What was the first product/s you started out with, and what was the response?

Following six years in production, Floral Lab Paris offered a full range of products from launch as we wanted to enable customers to benefit from a complete hair care regime, combining luxury with efficacy throughout their routine to achieve the ultimate long-term results. Our scrubs and masks featuring our patented complexes specifically target the scalp microbiome and are key within the regime. These products were designed to cleanse and nourish the scalp, setting the stage for healthier hair growth. The response was overwhelmingly positive, validating our approach and encouraging us to expand our product line.​

The Flora Lab Paris range starts with good scalp health

What does the product line-up look like now, and what would you say is a good regular regime for someone to use if they would like to make improvements to their scalp?

Currently, our product range encompasses 41 references, allowing customers to create a completely personal regime featuring various steps just like a skin care routine. Our innovative products differentiate between scalp and fibre needs and are designed to be incorporated into a 3 step regime:

STEP 1: Cleanse & Detoxify

Scrubs, masks and shampoos remove impurities, restore pH and rebalance the microbiome. Disruptive innovations, formulaic gems, the two Scrubs (Intensive Detox and Daily Detox) envisioned by Flora purify the roots, regenerate the scalp, and maintain the health of the microbiome. Also unprecedented, a Scalp & Hair Detox Mask allows for intensive detoxification by removing toxins, residues, and heavy metals. The two Shampoos (Reverse and Fortifying), formulated without sulfates or parabens, can be used alone or in conjunction with the scrubs. They protect the microbiome and pH.

STEP 2: Scalp Treatment & Care

Four serums (Scalp Balance, Detox, Anti-Aging and Density) complement the scalp's regenerative and anti-aging action to deeply and effectively rebalance the microbiome, similar to true skin serums. The scalp is cleansed, free from dandruff, and more supple. Collagen production is stimulated, and hair growth is reactivated.

Our ultra innovative Hair Fillers are full of the latest generation biomimetic active ingredients for optimal fusion, they penetrate into the heart of the hair fibre to reconstitute its composition with fundamental ingredients and thus fill and plump hair, even the most weakened.

STEP 3: Beautify & Treat

Enriched with biomimetic peptides, Miracle Heat Protection protects hair like a real barrier before blow-drying and restores all of its natural strength to the hair.

Star formula, the Miracle Repair Serum delivers its biomimetic peptides for instant restructuring and repair of the hair fibre on the inside and a shield effect on the outside of the fibre against attacks (chemical - colouring, thermal, pollution, UV…). A truly “miracle” serum, with miraculous results.

Can you please give us some insight into the formulations and what makes them so efficacious?

Our formulations are the result of meticulous research, combining bio-mimetic ingredients that mirror the scalp's natural composition.

With an identical pH but a cell renewal rate twice as fast as the skin, the scalp possesses a microbiome that is highly sensitive to stress and external aggressors. Most conventional hair care products do not take these factors into account - in fact, they worsen the process. After over 18 years of scientific research in the laboratory and 45 years of family heritage and professional expertise in hair care, Flora has developed two patented, unique, and extraordinary complexes that are perfectly tailored to this specific area of the body. The Miraculous Complexes unveil cutting-edge, pure, and exclusive molecular technologies integrated into the formulas to instantly restore the balance of the microbiome and provide long-lasting hair fibre regeneration.

FP5® Biome combines amino acids, micropeptides, and marine bioactives to restore the bacterial microbiome, balance pH, and stimulate collagen and elastin production at the fibroblast level for healthy and strong hair.

FMP10® is an unprecedented blend of micropeptides and hyaluronic acid (the purest, highest-quality model with the shortest supply chain), capable of deeply stimulating the structure, strength, and density of the hair fibre.

Once cleansed and regenerated, the scalp once again fulfils its role as a "manufacturer" of material optimally. Deeply repaired, the hair becomes instantly denser, lightweight, well-coated, and shiny. With continued treatments, they grow more resilient, supple, and increasingly beautiful.

Daily Detox scrub is a good first step to a routine

I'm intrigued by your Pure Ingredient boosters and the hair "fillers." Can you please tell us about those? How are they used, and what is their role in the regime?

The Pure Ingredient Boosters are concentrated treatments targeting specific scalp concerns, such as dryness or sensitivity. They deliver pure and highly concentrated actives: Hyaluronic Acid, Amino-Acids, Ceramides, Lipopeptides, Keratin, Microbiome Booster. They are designed to be added to other products within the range allowing for a complete tailor-made approach. This is a key trend in the skincare industry and we are proud to pioneer this approach to hair care.

The hair fillers are designed to repair and fortify the hair fibre, addressing issues like breakage and loss of elasticity. Much like fillers for the face, they penetrate deep into the cortex to fill and replenish with key ingredients, Hyaluronic Acid, Keratin and Ceramides, that are naturally found in your hair. Thanks to their molecular technology, the actives work on the internal structure of the hair and therefore treat it deeply.

What I love about the approach is you haven't forgotten the ritual side of haircare as you blend the sensorial side with the science (particularly with the hair mists). Why was this so important to you?

Integrating sensorial elements into our products was essential to create a holistic haircare experience. The use of fragrances, created by our exclusive perfumer Clémence Besse, not only enhances the pleasure of the routine but also contributes to overall well-being. This balance between science and sensoriality ensures that our products are both effective and enjoyable to use.​ Each ritual becomes an escape, a luxury moment of emotional disconnection.

What are the common issues you see with scalps, what causes them, and how can they be addressed both in terms of haircare and other measures?

Common scalp issues include dandruff, eczema, greasy or seborrheic scalp, inflammation, sensitivity, and imbalance in the microbiome. These can be caused by factors like environmental stressors, lifestyle habits and product build up. There are a lot of abrasive products on the market that contain far too many ingredients which disturb the microbiome and cause so many problems. Addressing these concerns involves avoiding products containing sulfates and parabens, regular cleansing, nourishment, and adopting a balanced lifestyle to support scalp health.​

Please tell us about the spa experience. We hear a lot about the "skinification of hair" when it comes to haircare products, but you take it to another level with the spa.

Our spa experience embodies the "skinification" concept by offering treatments that focus on the scalp's health, much like facial skincare routines. These treatments are designed to detoxify, hydrate, and rejuvenate the scalp with high tech ingredients, as well as provide a luxurious and therapeutic experience that complements our product line.​

Each treatment is a journey in itself, beginning with a diagnostic micro-camera evaluation, followed by a series of wellness-focused steps including Flora signature bespoke massages, to stimulate collagen, promote hair growth and prevent hair loss, a tailor-made olfactory journey providing a scented signature throughout, high tech devices such as radio-frequencies, and the Flora Nano Oxygen Device. The experience is personalised at every stage with one or more Pure Ingredient Boosters designed to deeply cleanse and toxify the scalp, amplify the function of active ingredients, and rejuvenate natural or coloured hair, all while offering ultimate relaxation.

Each treatment begins with a micro-camera evaluation

Flora’s signature protocols blend advanced technology with globally inspired massage techniques and the finest active ingredients. These relaxing massages not only improve circulation of oxygen to the scalp but also to the brain, helping to release anxiety and improve your mood. The result is a transformative experience that not only nurtures the scalp and hair, leaving them healthier, more vibrant, and beautifully styled, but can also have wonderful holistic benefits.

The spa experience is offered at some of the most exclusive locations in France. Are there plans to bring it elsewhere?

Our exclusive approach has already naturally found its place in the most prestigious palaces and resorts around the world: Joali Maldives and Joali Being, Spa Cheval Blanc in Courchevel and St. Tropez, La Réserve, Four Seasons George V, Bespoke Royal Champagne and One and Only, as well as in exclusive departments stores, Le Bon Marche, Galeries Lafayette, La Samaritaine and Harrods. We are also looking forward to launching in the Shangri La Mauritius and the Chancery Rosewood in London later this year.