The Interview: Ruby Hammer on being an accidental trailblazer in beauty

Ruby Hammer is one of British beauty's best known and most beloved personalities. She has been a familiar figure to beauty insiders and consumers since the 90s and, as such, it is easy to forget what a trailblazing figure she has been. Not that she set out to be one, she was just driven by an early love of beauty, which was instilled in her by her mother.

Having been brought up in Nigeria with Bangaladeshi parents, Hammer arrived in the UK at the age of 12, which opened her up to a whole new world of youth culture, fashion and beauty. Her career began working on the shop floor in iconic department stores Harrods, where she would spend most of her wages on make-up.

She began assisting on set before becoming an in-demand make-up artist herself, known for her ability to turn her hand to models of all ethnicities, which was not to be taken for granted in the 90s when some models of colour were obliged to apply their own make-up on shoots and backstage at shows. She went on to became a household name via appearances on television shows, such as 10 Years Younger.

Ruby Hammer and her mother, who inspired her love of beauty

In the late 90s, Hammer pushed inclusive beauty into the mainstream with the launch of the Ruby & Millie beauty line with the then beauty publicist Millie Kendall (now best known as the CEO of The British Beauty Council). Ruby & Millie brought inclusive and affordable beauty to the masses via a partnership with Boots, which was a trailblazing move. But for Hammer (a Muslim) and Kendall (a Jew) the intention was simply to do what came naturally to them, and the line was a huge success. Its signature clear packaging and multi-purpose products were also ahead of their time.

Some of the spirit of Ruby & Millie lives on in Ruby Hammer Beauty, a considered and carefully curated line-up of tools and products, launched by Hammer in 2019. Hammer, who received an MBE for her services to beauty in 2007, talks to us about her early influences, how her career developed over the years, and her advice for fellow female founders.

You are such a familiar figure to all of us in beauty, but I think it’s worth delving into your background a bit for those who may not be familiar with it. You were brought up in Nigeria by Bangladeshi parents, looking back how did you feel your early life shaped you and your passion for beauty?

It really all started with my mum. She was a young mother running a household, and in that hot, humid Nigerian environment, it was hard work. But I vividly remember watching her put her makeup on and seeing the immediate impact it had. Seeing that power of transformation, and how it made her feel, that was the absolute seed for me.

Our world back then was actually quite small and insular. We didn't have magazines lying around, no art galleries to visit, and no regular TV. My mum was my main point of reference. For outside inspiration, we just had the films we managed to watch: Spaghetti Westerns, James Bond, Bollywood movies, and cartoons. I absorbed all that glamour and colour from the screen.

Ruby Hammer with her family growing up in Nigeria

You arrived in the UK at the age of 12. What impact did that have on you? It must have opened up a whole new world but it may also have been a culture shock?

Coming to the UK... honestly, it was just an explosion of everything. Suddenly, I had access to all these new visuals and cultures. By the time I hit my teenage years, I was lucky enough to go to a school that actually allowed us to wear makeup. Having the freedom to literally play and experiment every single day just took that early fascination and pushed it right over the edge.

It was a massive culture shock, but honestly, in the most incredible way. Going from such a quiet, insular environment to suddenly having the world at my fingertips was thrilling. The sheer accessibility of everything just blew my mind.

Being here meant that if I wanted a piece of makeup, I could just walk into a shop and buy it. The high street alone was an absolute revelation. It wasn't just the beauty products, though, it was the food, the magazines, the music, and especially the clothes. In the UK, fashion was right there on the streets. It was real, it was everyday self-expression, and it was everywhere you looked.

For a young girl already obsessed with transformation, having that level of freedom and choice was everything. I wasn't just observing beauty and style from a distance anymore; I could finally touch it, experiment with it, and actually be a part of it.

At what point did you decide that a career in beauty was the aim in life and what was your first introduction to it? I believe you started on the shop floor in Harrods…

People always assume I started on the beauty counters, but I was actually working in the fashion section at Harrods. The real draw for me, though, was the staff discount, I spent absolutely everything I earned on makeup. It was the era of Biba, Miss Selfridge, Stagelight, Princess Galitzine... I was just consuming all of it.

Even then, I didn't see it as a legitimate career path. The turning point didn't happen until I actually started assisting makeup artists on jobs. Being on set and seeing how it all worked, the penny just dropped. That was the exact moment I knew I was going to work in beauty and that I definitely wasn't going back to university to do a Master's.

I took a massive leap of faith, changed my entire path, and well, here I am today!

Ruby Hammer at work

You were one of the first MUAs to have a high profile outside of insider circles from your work at London Fashion Week, on TV and in magazines. Did you actively seek for that to happen or was it more of an organic process?

It was definitely an organic process, but that’s not to say I wasn't ambitious! I had clear goals from the start. At the time, I was navigating a young family and a marriage, trying to juggle all those circumstances behind the scenes, but I still actively sought out an agent. From there, it was a constant evolution. Whenever an opportunity was thrown my way, I grabbed it with both hands just to see how far I could go. I really, genuinely wanted it and I pushed myself forward because my passion for the work was just all-consuming.

The TV side of things, however, actually happened completely by fluke. I made an appearance on The Clothes Show, and the producers quickly realised that I could talk and apply makeup simultaneously on live television without getting completely frazzled! It’s a very specific skill to be able to work under that kind of pressure, and because I could handle it, things just snowballed.

I was approached to do 10 Years Younger, which was a huge moment. From there, it just naturally evolved…. from The Clothes Show to Style Challenge, right through to launching my own brand, and then suddenly I’m appearing on Lorraine, This Morning, and chatting on the BBC. It was never part of a master plan to become a 'high-profile' name, but when those doors opened, I just made sure I walked through them.

Honestly, looking back at that side of my career, I would absolutely love to do more of this now!

Did you ever feel in the early days that your heritage impacted how you were received? Even now, we are still striving for diversity and equality, I just wonder what it was like then?

It must have had a bearing, of course, but it was never at the forefront of my relationships with people. I made a very conscious choice not to work from a negative place or focus on the doors that weren't open to me.

I knew I had to be prepared to prove myself and absolutely not take things in a negative frame. Even today, models of colour who I worked with back in the 80s will say to me, "I loved seeing you on set, because I knew you would actually be able to do my skin and would have my foundation." Knowing I provided that reassurance and safe space for them means the world to me.

Ultimately, I didn't want to be boxed in. I just wanted to push myself to be the absolute best makeup artist I could possibly be - irrespective of colour, age, or heritage.

I’ve heard models of colour speak about how, back in the 90s for instance, they ended up doing their own make-up on shoots and at shows; it must have been nice having someone like you come along who understood how to work with all models…

It is completely true, and looking back, it was a really heartbreaking reality for so many of those girls. They would turn up to these incredible, high-end shoots or major runway shows carrying their own little bags of makeup, absolutely terrified that they were going to be made to look ashy, grey, or completely washed out. And rightly so, because so many artists simply didn't have the products in their kits or the knowledge to work with deeper skin tones

For me, it was never even a question. I absolutely refused to let anyone sit in my chair and feel like an afterthought. Because the shade ranges on the market here were so abysmal back then, I would also buy from the States. Whenever I had a trip over there, it was brilliant because they had a much wider colour choice, and I would just stock up. But even with those imports, my kit was incredibly heavy! I was constantly playing, mixing custom foundation shades, using lipsticks as cream blushers, doing whatever it took to get those warm, rich undertones exactly right.

The physical relief on a model's face when they sat down, looked at my kit, and realised they could actually just relax and let me do my job... it was palpable. You could feel their shoulders drop. It went so far beyond just applying makeup; it was about making them feel seen, respected, and beautiful, just like the other girls on set. I have always firmly believed that if you are going to call yourself a makeup artist, you have to be an artist for everyone.

Ruby Hammer and Millie Kendall launched the Ruby & Millie brand in 1998

How did you meet Millie [Kendall, co-founder of Ruby & Millie and now CEO of the British Beauty Council]? And what was it that prompted you both to launch a brand?

It was many, many years ago when she was launching the Shu Uemura counter in Harvey Nichols. I was working on a feature for Elle Magazine at the time called 'Portrait of an Artist', which meant I was running all over London trying to source very specific products for my kit. My route that day was Harvey Nichols, Screen Face, and honestly, some shitty little chemist!

When I walked into Harvey Nichols, the Shu Uemura counter was absolutely immaculate. And there was Millie. She was this blonde, Madonna-lookalike, and she just had her backside swinging as she vigorously polished the glass shelves with Windowlene. I took one look at her and thought, "That is a girl after my own heart, polishing to absolute perfection."

We just clicked immediately through that shared, obsessive work ethic. I actually introduced the beauty journalist Anna-Marie Solowij to her shortly after that.

As for what prompted us to launch the brand, that underlying drive and perfectionism we recognized in each other on that very first day became the foundation for everything we did. We were both working so hard, seeing the glaring gaps in the market, especially when it came to inclusivity and accessible, professional-quality products, so eventually, we just decided to team up and create what was missing ourselves.

What did you set out to do with Ruby & Millie? It was trailblazing in that it promoted diversity and inclusion before those were even themes that were being widely talked about. It feels like it probably just came naturally to both of you…?

It really did come completely naturally. We definitely didn’t sit there in a meeting and strategically think, "Right, we need to focus on diversity and inclusion." It was never a marketing angle or a buzzword for us; it was just our reality.

I was bringing all of my editorial experience to the table, where I was already used to working on absolutely every type of skin tone under the sun, and I had also worked on the launch of Aveda. Millie, at the time, used to do the PR for the brand. Because of our respective backgrounds and what we were both seeing on the ground every single day, neither of us ever had to explain the concept of diversity to one another.

We didn't need to have long, drawn-out discussions about who we were catering to. We just looked at the industry, saw the glaring gaps on the shop floor, and immediately drew the exact same conclusions. We just wanted to create incredible, accessible makeup that actually worked for everyone, plain and simple. Individually we were trailblazing, but together, we were formidable.

Did you think back then how trailblazing it was to have a female founded brand, fronted by a Muslim and a Jew? In light of today’s geopolitical situation, that would feel quite the statement now.

Honestly, at the time, we didn't think of it as a 'statement' at all. We were just two women who respected each other's work ethic, shared a vision, and wanted to build something incredible together.

My Muslim background and Millie’s Jewish heritage were simply parts of who we were as individuals, it was never a barrier, and it certainly wasn't a PR angle. We were focused on the work, the products, and creating something that empowered everyone.

Looking back now, especially given everything happening in the world today, I realise just how rare and powerful that partnership really was. Two women from totally different backgrounds coming together, rising above all the noise, and building a hugely successful brand side by side. It showed that when you lead with mutual respect, passion, and a shared purpose, those differences don't divide you, they make you stronger. We didn't set out to make a political point, but in hindsight, it proved what is possible when unity comes first.

And hats off to Boots, for them to partner back then with us was a huge undertaking (and a risk) but they had a team with vision.

What was the most valuable lesson you took from the experience of the Ruby & Millie era?

For me, it was learning how to navigate working with a massive corporate juggernaut.

When you're an entrepreneur or a creative, you're used to being nimble: you see an idea, you execute it, and you move fast. But when you partner with a huge corporate entity, you quickly realise you aren't in a small speedboat anymore. You're on a massive ship. You have to learn how to slow down, adjust to their pace, and navigate all the extra links in the chain.

The biggest lesson in all of that was learning how to fight for your identity. When you're working within a giant machine, it’s so easy for your vision to get diluted if you aren't careful. You have to stay incredibly firm, retain control of your own narrative, and continuously protect the soul of what you've built.

At the same time, you learn the power of scale. Being aligned with a big corporation meant we could knock on doors that, as a small independent brand, we could have never opened on our own.

Ruby Hammer Beauty launched in 2019

You now have your own brand, Ruby Hammer Beauty. When was that launched and what are the values you place at the centre of the brand?

I launched Ruby Hammer Beauty in 2019, and it really came from a desire to simplify things. Having spent decades in the industry, I wanted to strip back the noise and focus on fast, effective, and beautiful solutions that fit effortlessly into real people’s lives.

At the very core of the brand is the philosophy of embracing your own natural beauty. I have never been interested in makeup that masks who you are or tries to turn everyone into a carbon copy. Beauty should enhance, not disguise. It is about playing up your best features and feeling completely confident in your own skin.

Quality, versatility, and usability are everything to me. Every single product I create has to earn its place in your makeup bag. It is about clever, multi-tasking formulas, effortless application, and products that truly work for every age, skin tone, and skill level. Whether you have two minutes on the train or want to take your time at home, it is designed to be approachable, inclusive, and empowering. Ultimately, beauty should bring you joy, not stress!

You have been incredibly disciplined with the product line-up. What products did you start with and why? And how do you decide what to introduce and when?

I deliberately started small because I didn't want to add to the consumer fatigue. The world didn't need another massive 50-shade foundation line just for the sake of it! I kicked off with our Magnetic Brush Sets and Nail Kit. As a makeup artist, I know that tools are the foundation of everything. If you have the right tool, half your job is already done. I wanted to create something hygienic, customizable, and compact so people didn't have to lug around a giant roll of brushes.

Then COVID hit, and I had to pivot my entire strategy... The original plan was to launch our Lip Serum Balms next, but suddenly we were all wearing masks every day. Lip products just didn't make sense in that moment, so I shifted focus and launched our Eyeliners instead to highlight the eyes. Once things opened up again, we brought out the Lip Serum Balms, giving people that deep hydration with a subtle, wearable wash of colour.

My process for introducing new products comes down to adaptability and purpose: it has to solve a real problem, fit into the world as it is right now, or fill a genuine gap in my own kit. I am not interested in chasing every fleeting trend on social media. I look at what real people actually need, what makes getting ready easier, and whether I can create the absolute best version of that product. If it doesn't meet every single one of those criteria, it doesn't get made.

Ruby Hammer received an MBE from her late Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 2007

When you are developing products, are you thinking about how widely they can be used, it would appear so?

It really is inherently in me. Whether I am working as an artist on set or creating products for the consumer, my instinct is always to choose shades, textures, and formulas that work for as many people as possible.

I hate the idea of a product that can only be used in one very specific way or only suits a tiny fraction of people. When I am formulating or designing, I am constantly asking myself: How can this work harder for you? Can a lip serum balm give a wash of color that flatters every skin tone? Can it double as a quick cream blush on the go? Can a tool be intuitive enough for a total beginner, but precise enough for a pro?

Life is busy, and nobody wants to carry around a massive makeup bag full of single-use items. By focusing on versatile shades, adaptable textures, and multi-functional designs, it gives people the freedom to play without fear of getting it wrong. For me, beauty should be effortless, flexible, and genuinely usable for everyone.

You have clearly had a successful career and you are a beloved figure, but I am sure there have been challenges along the way, particularly as a female founder of Asian heritage, what were the key challenges, do they still exist to this day and what changes would you like to see moving forward?

The reality of being a female founder and a self-funded founder in a deeply competitive industry is that every single day is a battle. Being of South Asian heritage is certainly a part of my story, but honestly, that is the last bit. It isn't my heritage that holds things back; it is simply the nature of the beast. The beauty space is a relentless, crowded machine, and building a business from the ground up on your own dime is inherently tough.

When you are self-funded, you don't have the luxury of massive corporate backing or unlimited marketing budgets to burn through. You are carrying all the risk yourself. As a woman in business, you are constantly having to prove your commercial clout, negotiate harder, and fight for space against mega-brands backed by private equity. You have to be sharper, tougher, and far more disciplined with every single decision you make.

Moving forward, the change I want to see is real support and backing for independent, female-led innovation. It is great to see diverse faces on billboards, but true change happens when we invest in the people building the brands from the inside out. We need to create fairer funding opportunities, open up retail pathways, and back founders who are putting quality, integrity, and real consumers ahead of quick corporate trends.