Which? is urging the Government to "urgently prioritise" reform of the UK’s consumer enforcement system, after new research revealed that over 65% of beauty products sold on online marketplaces such as Amazon, eBay, TikTok Shop and Vinted are likely to be counterfeit.
In the investigation, Which? purchased 34 cosmetic products from third party sellers that have collectively racked up thousands of sales of these items on Amazon, eBay, Tiktok Shop and Vinted.
The cosmetics purchased were advertised as being from brands like Charlotte Tilbury, La Roche-Posay, Maybelline, The Ordinary and MAC Cosmetics.
In each case, researchers conducted visual checks on the packaging and contents, comparing them with the genuine products purchased from trusted retailers.
The findings
In total, the consumer group believes 23 of the 34 products purchased were likely to be counterfeit (67%). This included four out of 11 products ordered on Amazon, eight out of 11 products purchased on eBay, five out of six products ordered from TikTok shop, and six out of six items bought on Vinted.
Many of the dupes were "difficult to spot", and only became apparent when directly compared with the genuine samples. It said the "highly convincing nature of these fake products" means consumers could easily be caught out, putting them at risk.
Which? found that a bottle of Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray (RRP £32.99) bought from Amazon for an inflated price of £37.90 "looked the part from the outside", but on closer inspection researchers noted it had a cloying floral scent, distinctly different from the genuine sample.
Similarly, a MAC Macximal silky matte lipstick in shade Ruby Woo (RRP £25) purchased from Vinted for £15 arrived in packaging very similar to the genuine version, but when closely compared, the lipstick bullet itself was subtly different with a smudged logo that didn’t match up with the original.
Researchers also identified more obvious issues with the products purchased, including problems with the packaging - such as misspellings and stylistic errors - as well as concerns about the contents themselves.
It said a tube of La Roche Posay Effaclar Serum (RRP £40) purchased on Vinted for just £12 smelt "suspiciously like shampoo". Meanwhile, a tube of Maybelline Lash Sensational Sky High Mascara (RRP £12.99) purchased from Tiktok Shop for just £8.07 had an incorrect label on the bottom of the tube, and other inconsistencies in the design.
Additionally, when researchers purchased discounted tubes of CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum (RRP £23) from Amazon (£19), eBay (£6.85) and Vinted (£7), all three came in different packaging to the genuine product, and were missing the safety markings researchers would expect to see. It was also difficult to extract the serum from the bottles, and the product differed in both consistency and colour.
The risks
The investigation flagged serious health risks for consumers, warning that counterfeit cosmetics may contain toxic ingredients like lead, mercury or arsenic, and in some cases, even animal faeces.
Consultant Dermatologist Dr Aamna Adel added that even where a fake product contains genuine active ingredients such as glycolic acid or retinol, the lack of regulation or oversight in their production means they may be incorrectly formulated. This poses the risk of skin irritation, skin infections or even chemical burns.
"It is clear strong enforcement action is needed to shut down these sellers, but previous Which? research has shown that counterfeit goods and other crimes are not always being investigated in many parts of the UK because some Trading Standards services have deprioritised this area," Which? said in a statement.
It added that the Product Regulation & Metrology Act, which became law this week, may pave the way for new laws that could clarify and strengthen responsibilities for online marketplaces, but to be truly effective "these will require a reformed enforcement system that's fit for the 21st century".
Which? is also warning shoppers to be vigilant when purchasing items on online marketplaces. The consumer group is encouraging people to buy cosmetics either in-store or online directly from a brand’s official website, or through one of their affiliated retailers or approved stockists.
Phil Lewis, Director General of The Anti-Counterfeiting Group, told Which? that even on cheaper fake products the profit margins are ‘extremely high’, meaning consumers should be on their guard even if discounts seem more realistic.
Rocio Concha, Which? Director of Policy and Advocacy, added: "It’s alarming that Which? researchers were able to find such high volumes of what appeared to be potentially dangerous counterfeit cosmetics on popular online marketplaces, where teenagers in particular are likely to be enticed by what seem to be big discounts on popular brands.
"Consumers should be as confident in the products they buy online as the items that they purchase on the high street, but in reality they risk buying untested, unregulated and potentially toxic cosmetics.
"Trading Standards needs to take decisive action to prevent these products from making their way into people's homes, but because of limited resources and competing demands, counterfeit investigations are being deprioritised in many parts of the country. The Government must ensure there are clear duties on online marketplaces to prevent the sale of counterfeit goods, and urgently commit to the reforms needed to ensure our consumer enforcement system is fit for the 21st century."
Responding to the investigation, L’Oréal Group said it takes the threat of counterfeit products very seriously, while counterfeit listings are strictly prohibited on online marketplaces such as eBay, TikTok Shop, and Vinted, which work to proactively block these items.
