Why the UK is disregarding EU legislation on self-tanning products

The UK government’s Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety in Consumer Products (SAG-CS) has published its findings on the safety of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and the maximum amount that should be used in self-tanning products.

So, what exactly is DHA? Dihydroxyacetone is one of the primary ingredients found in sunless tanning products. It's a non-toxic sugar that was first developed as an artificial sweetener for diabetic patients. However, in the 1950s, when children with glycogen storage diseases took it, it was discovered that it induced a brown pigmentation to the skin.

DHA binds to the protein, keratin, on the skin surface to produce melanoidins in a reaction similar to the Maillard reaction which occurs when food browns during cooking. In other words, it can brown the skin without the need for UV light. So, the higher the percentage of DHA a tanning product contains, the darker it can affect your skin tone.

According to SAG-CS, DHA does not have "any harmonised classifications in relation to human health under the GB Classification, Labelling and Packaging".

Yet, the industry was frenzied when, in April 2022, the EU introduced new rules that stated tanning businesses cannot use tanning solutions which contain more than 10% DHA. Shelves were emptied as spray tanning artists clamoured to get their hands on deeper solutions in the fear that the UK government could impose similar restrictions.

However, according to the final opinion of the Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety in Consumer Products, the British government is recommending otherwise.

For traditional lotions and non-aerosol sprays, a maximum amount of 14% DHA is recommended. The same applies to spray tanning booths. For rinse-off self-tanning lotions, the DHA can be increased up to 22.5%. Outside of the realm of self-tanning, up to 6.25% DHA can be used in non-oxidative hair colourants.